Asscher Cut Engagement Rings – Everything You Need To Know

 Asscher cut engagement rings are relatively rare. This is a shame because an asscher cut engagement ring really is something special to look at. You do not see many of them, but it is the perfect cut for someone who is looking for a modern contemporary look that will show off the stone to maximum effect.

What is an Asscher cut ring?

The Asscher cut is very distinctive – it is a stepped cut, which is designed to produce a star like effect in the stone. It is quite a geometrical cut, with interesting shadows being cast within the stone, producing a layered pattern of dark, grey and clear sections on the stone.

You may have seen something similar if you have ever looked at dark gemstone rings from the turn of the 20th century. At that time, it was a popular cut for large emeralds and rubies, and it certainly shows these stones off.

However, the effect is much more spectacular when a diamond or light gemstone is used. If you are looking for something a bit different and Asscher cut diamond ring is definitely a great option.

The history of Asscher cut rings


The Dutch Asscher brothers invented the cut in 1902. At the time, they were working in the family jewellery firm that was established in 1884 in Amsterdam.

The firm is still based in Amsterdam, but they also now have outlets in New York and Tokyo. Today, they have a reputation for cutting the most expensive diamonds.

In 1980, they became the Royal Asscher Diamond Company when Queen Juliana awarded them the prefix. The family is famous for cutting the Excelsior and Cullinan diamonds.

Vintage Asscher cut engagement rings

If you are lucky enough to be offered an antique Asscher cut ring take the chance to buy it. Cleverly, the firm patented their cut. The patent lasted until the WWII, so most genuine Asscher rings made between 1902 and 1939 – 1940/1 were actually made in Holland by the Asscher family.

The family may not have made those rings that were made after those dates. Many of the family and their workers were imprisoned and died in the concentration camps. During this time, the patent expired and no one in the family was able to renew it, so, sadly, they lost it.

Naturally, these rings have a higher value than the imitation rings that were made after that date. The vast majority of early Asscher cut rings were made from very good quality stones.

Right from the start, the family were careful to work with the best materials. They did not want their reputation to be tarnished by bad results.

If you do not like the band or setting you have the potential to find a professional jeweller to reset it for you. However, the fact that the majority of the rings were produced in the 1920s and 30s means that most people find the rings contemporary enough to wear as is.

Modern Asscher diamond engagement rings

It is still possible to buy an asscher cut diamond ring from the actual Asscher family. However, you can also buy some beautiful examples from other jewellers. It is a cut that takes a lot of skill, but a lot of ambitious cutters and polishers take the time to learn and perfect the cut.

The family has also developed a new version of the cut called the Royal Asscher cut. This cut gives you 78 facets instead of the 58, which you get with the original version of the cut. The 78 facets definitely make a difference you can really see.

Naturally, the family have patented this new cut. Therefore, if you want a Royal Asscher cut ring you will need to buy it direct from them or one of their official distributors.

Each diamond they cut is now laser etched with the Royal Asscher trademark and a unique identification number. If you are offered a 2nd hand Royal Asscher engagement ring we highly recommend that you get it independently verified.

The right setting for an Asscher cut

If you are going to invest in either a traditional Asscher cut diamond or a royal cut it is important to get the setting right. The whole point of this cut is the way the stone absorbs and reflects natural light. This means that a raised setting is best. You can buy these kinds of diamonds set into a band, but really, you have to ask yourself if there is any point in doing this. This is because the body of the band will prevent enough light from reaching the diamonds to really show off the cut.

Our favourite is Asscher cut halo engagement rings. The effect the halo, or edging stones has on the central stone produces interesting patterns that you simply do not see with a solitaire setting. These rings cost more, but we feel they are worth the additional investment.

How To Buy Asscher Cut Engagement Rings: